You climb to the Citadel of Saladin, the limestone fortress begun in 1176, and into the Mosque of Muhammad Ali at its center, its alabaster walls and twin Ottoman minarets crowning the skyline since the 1840s. Under the great central dome your guide explains the ruler who reshaped modern Egypt. From the terrace, Cairo spreads out below you to the pyramids on a clear day. Modest dress is needed inside the mosque, and shoes come off at the carpet's edge.

You visit the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, built in the 9th century and one of the oldest and largest mosques in Egypt, its vast open courtyard ringed by simple pointed arches. The unmistakable feature is the spiral minaret, with an external staircase winding up the outside, modeled on the ancient ziggurats of Iraq. Climb it for a sweeping view over the rooftops. Far quieter than the Citadel, it is a favorite of architects and photographers alike.

Down in Coptic Cairo you reach the Hanging Church, so named because its nave is built over the gatehouse of the Roman fortress of Babylon and appears to hang above the passage. Parts date to the 7th century, and inside are inlaid screens, icons, and an ark-shaped wooden roof. Your guide walks you through the narrow lanes of the old Christian quarter around it, among the oldest churches in Egypt. Calm and shaded, it is an easy walk.

You finish at the Gawhara Palace, built in 1814 beside the Citadel as the residence and reception hall of Muhammad Ali. Inside are gilded ceilings, period furniture, royal portraits, and a famous clock given by King Louis-Philippe of France. It offers a glimpse of how Egypt's 19th-century rulers lived, a different register from the ancient temples and a fitting end to a day spent moving through Cairo's many layers.