The cliffs of Étretat come as a surprise even when you know what to expect. The Porte d'Aval — the great western arch — frames the Aiguille needle beyond it in a composition so perfect it looks constructed. To the east, the Porte d'Amont arch rises from the other end of the beach, smaller but no less dramatic. The cliff path above the western arch is the essential walk — twenty minutes from the village, rewarded with the view that Monet returned to again and again. Below, the pebble beach and the village offer a different pace entirely: a covered market, a handful of restaurants, the Jardins d'Étretat on the hill with the arch as its permanent backdrop. From Deauville, Étretat is an hour north along the Alabaster Coast — one of the more beautiful drives in Normandy in its own right.

Between Étretat and Honfleur, the Norman bocage takes over — a landscape of hedged fields, apple orchards, and farmhouses that has looked roughly the same for several centuries. Your tasting stop visits a local producer in this countryside for an introduction to the drinks that Normandy has been making since the Middle Ages. Dry cider, sweet cider, pommeau (a blend of fresh apple juice and calvados), and calvados itself — aged in oak barrels, smooth, complex, and completely unlike anything labelled "apple brandy" elsewhere. This is not a tourist attraction. It is a working farm producing the real thing, and the tasting reflects that. Allow 45 minutes and leave with a bottle.

Honfleur sits at the mouth of the Seine where it meets the Channel — a position that made it one of the great ports of medieval France and later one of the most painted harbours in Europe. The Vieux Bassin is the heart of it: a small rectangular harbour ringed by the tall, narrow slate-fronted houses that give Honfleur its singular silhouette. Eugène Boudin was born here. He taught Monet here. The light that made both of them is still the same. Walk the quayside. Climb to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce above the town for views across the Seine estuary. Find the Église Sainte-Catherine — the largest timber church in France, built by shipwrights after the Hundred Years War because there was no stone and no time. Then find a table at the harbour and order whatever the boats brought in that morning.