Buenos Aires, the city where tango drifts from open doorways, football is discussed with near-religious devotion, and everyone seems to have a strong opinion about where to find the best empanada. No one treats lunch quite as seriously as porteños. 
 Our feasting tour of 12+ tastings explores the historic San Telmo district, led by our team of local tastemakers. Before we get started, our tour reflects the local cuisine and the limitations of traditional vendors means we unfortunately cannot cater for every dietary restriction. Here's an honest appraisal for the tour so no-one is disappointed:
 ✘ Unsuitable for vegetarian, vegan, pescatarian, halal diets, gluten and lactose intolerance as the tastings would be very limited. ✔ No pork diets possible though some tastings do not have alternatives available and the menu would be more limited. ✔ Suitable for mild peanut and tree nut allergies, and no seafood diets

Nothing starts in Argentina without a pastry. Our first stop introduces us to the bola de fraile, a pillowy doughnut whose name translates rather mischievously as "friar's ball." Filled with sweet pastry cream, it's a reminder that Argentinians take their bakeries every bit as seriously as their steakhouses. As we wander deeper into San Telmo's cobbled streets, we'll begin uncovering the stories of a neighbourhood that was once home to the city's wealthiest families. Today, artists, musicians, collectors, and food lovers have reclaimed its historic streets.

Inside a century-old bar, time appears to move a little slower. Vermouth flows from behind worn counters, conversations drift between tables, and recipes passed down through generations continue to attract loyal locals. We'll sample house-cured jamón, delicate chard fritters, and pickled eggplants prepared according to old family traditions. Alongside them comes a glass of house vermouth, the drink that fuelled countless political debates, football arguments, and long afternoons throughout Buenos Aires' cafés and bars. Passing Casa Ezeiza and the beautiful Pasaje de la Defensa, we'll pause to admire two of San Telmo's architectural treasures. Built during the neighbourhood's golden age, these elegant buildings offer a glimpse into the grandeur that once defined the district.

No food journey through San Telmo would be complete without entering its most famous landmark: Mercado de San Telmo. Opened in 1897, the market has witnessed waves of immigration, economic booms, political turmoil, and changing food fashions. Today, beneath its iron framework and soaring roof, traders, cooks, and craftspeople continue traditions that have lasted for generations. Among the market's many temptations, we'll stop for a proper choripán. Smoky sausage tucked into crusty bread and generously dressed with chimichurri, it's simple, messy, and one of Argentina's most beloved street foods.

At another neighbourhood institution, we'll tackle one of Buenos Aires' finest fried empanadas. Crisp, golden pastry gives way to a richly seasoned beef filling, elevated by a closely guarded ancestral sauce whose recipe remains a family secret. A little further off the tourist trail, we'll visit a local favourite known primarily to residents. Here, slices of fainá, a chickpea flatbread introduced by Italian immigrants, are served with fluffy onion-topped fugazza, another enduring gift from Buenos Aires' Italian heritage.

We finish the only way Buenos Aires knows how: around a parrilla. Smoke rises from the grill as meats cook slowly over live fire, a ritual that sits at the heart of Argentine culture. Alongside the grilled meats comes bubbling provoleta cheese, a fresh side salad, and finally budín de pan, Argentina's beloved bread pudding, created generations ago as a delicious solution to wasting yesterday's bread. There's more to this Buenos Aires food tour than the food itself. It's a discovery and understanding of the immigrant influences, neighbourhood institutions, and local traditions. Whilst it's possible to eat well in Buenos Aires alone, you'd be hard-pushed to uncover these stories, flavours, and hidden gems without our tastemaker guides.