We begin our journey going back in time from Baixa, Lisbon’s 'modern' downtown district rebuilt after the devastating 18th-century earthquake. Here, we unravel how the earthquake reshaped not only the city’s architecture, but also introduced surprisingly modern urban ideas for its time. At one of the last food stops of this kind — a historic establishment open since 1890 — we will taste carefully selected DOP products and specialties sourced from small Portuguese producers, including the unique Bísaro ham, awarded artisanal cheese, artisanal bread and marmelade, paired with a Tawny Porto wine.

Our journey then continues into the narrow streets and Mouraria hill, one of Lisbon’s oldest and most fascinating neighborhoods, shaped by centuries of history since the 12th century. Across two carefully curated food stops, enjoy full Mozambican specialties that reflect Lisbon’s food multicultural identity — beyond the small pastries usually served — alongside a generous cut of tender, juicy premium cod prepared exclusively for our groups, rather than tasting shredded cod, used in cod cakes or Cod à Brás. While we love these recipes, we believe that the premium cut is the fairest and most honest way to allow travelers to truly experience the texture, flavor, and quality of one of Portugal’s most iconic ingredients. We step into local taverns that visitors would hardly find, to discover not only the flavors of the neighborhood, but also the stories, migrations, traditions, and communities that continue to shape it today. Total walking time: 30mn Seated time: 60 mn

With our bellies ready for another short walk, we walk downhill toward the river and into Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood. At our final stop — a historic tavern, carved into the city’s ancient walls — we step into an almost medieval atmosphere where a generous selection of 'petiscos' awaits: traditional flammed chorizo, artisanal cheeses, octopus, seasonal seafood specialties, among others, alongside selected local wines from small Portuguese producers or non-alcoholic alternatives. And because our four-hour Portuguese slow food tour journey couldn't end without something sweet, desserts and coffee become the perfect way to gently close our journey back in time! Along the way, we uncover the foundations of Lisbon itself, from the Roman period through the Arab influence. As we wander through its maze of narrow streets guests discover how this part of the city was designed both for defense and to better withstand Lisbon’s summer heat.

Oh! My Cod MANIFESTO Created in 2017 by Silvia Olivença — a Lisbon native born in Alfama, trained in Clinical Psychology and holding a PhD in Medical Anthropology — this experience was never designed as a conventional food tour. All these shops and restaurants and family-run establishments included along the journey are places that have been part of Silvia’s own life since adolescence, long before tourism transformed Lisbon. Several had never worked with tours before becoming part of this project, helping shape a more intimate, human, and culturally grounded approach to food tourism in the city over the past decade. Deeply influenced by anthropology, diversity, and human connection, Oh! My Cod tours works with gastronomy in an eclectic and holistic approach, as a medium to narrate several voices, cultures, generations and different perspectives – namely the subversive ones – through immersive experiences and human encounters, where we all (including you!) become cultural narrators.