Thought to translate to 'The Small Citadel' or 'Narrow Fortress', Banteay Chhmar is the Angkorian period's fourth-largest temple after Preah Khan, Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat. Considered as the country's most important temple of the same era, the complex consists of a moat and reservoir set in a remote, lush and unspoilt setting. Although little is known about the temple, it is known that King Jayavarman VII commissioned it in the late twelfth and early thirteenth century and a shrine within the complex held the image of his Crown Prince.

After a local lunch at a community restaurant, we make a stop at a French NGO project call "Les Soieries du Mekong’. This not-for-profit project is encouraging, and training, young Cambodians in the region around the temple keeping traditional silk weaving skills alive. An admirable initiative that gives these young artisans a source of income and a brighter future. It will be a long drive back to Siem Reap, but en route, the true heart of traditional Cambodia will keep you entertained until your return at your overnight address.