In the northwestern corner of Jordan, in the hills above the Jordan Valley, are the ruins of the Decapolis city of Gadara, now called Umm Qais. The site is striking because of its juxtaposition of Roman ruins with an abandoned Ottoman-era village, as well as its tremendous vantage point, with views of three countries (Jordan, Syria, and Israel and the Palestinian Territories), encompassing the Golan Heights, Mt Hermon and the Sea of Galilee.

Arriving in the modern town of Jerash, with its provincial streets and small market gardens, you see little to suggest its illustrious past. But the moment you cross from the new town into the ancient city, its boundary marked by the imposing Hadrian’s Arch, it becomes apparent that this was once no ordinary backwater but a city of great wealth and importance.

It may look a bit rough around the edges, but Ajloun (or Ajlun) is founded on an ancient market town and boasts a 600-year-old mosque with a fine stone-dressed minaret. Most visitors, however, don’t come to experience this chaotic little hub and its limited attractions: they come for the impressive castle perched atop a nearby hill, where it has commanded the high ground for nearly 1000 years.

Drop-Off