You board the cruise boat as it pulls away from the bank and Cairo's skyline lights up along the water. Dinner is an open buffet of grilled meats, mezze, and Egyptian staples, served while the boat makes its slow loop on the river. The entertainment builds through the sailing: live music, a folkloric dance troupe, and a tanoura spinner turning nonstop in a cone of bright fabric, a performance rooted in Sufi tradition. Between courses you step onto the deck for the night breeze and the city sliding past.